We begin our November adventure in Prague—then transfer to our longship and begin a river journey from Nürnberg to Basel. In Basel we’ll meet up with friends and move to the city where I spent my junior year in college—Freiburg, Germany. I left there 51 years ago and am looking forward to being again enchanted by the Black Forest. So this will be a three-part adventure!
PART ONE: Prague
Day One: MSP-Amsterdam
What a wonderful fall day to begin another world adventure. The air was fresh, the lawn strewn with leaves. We decided to winterize a bit–patio furniture covered, plantings cut back, etc. When we arrive home just before Thanksgiving, who knows what the weather will hold.
Our Delta check in was smooth, and our app indicated the TSA wait was just 1 minute–ONE! We were sure that was a misprint, yet we found ourselves in a queue of perhaps 4-5 people. Our security protocol did, in fact, take one minute! The entire airport seemed a bit empty, nearly eerie. (Wondered if it had anything to do with the air traffic control issues?) What wasn’t empty or eerie, however, was the bar where we enjoyed a traditional pre-trip cocktail. Gotta love those traditions.
Delta did not fail us–all personnel seemed genuinely happy to see us as we boarded and they served us well on the flight. Before our departure time and under a full moon, we lifted off the runway and began our trek–first to Amsterdam, then on to Prague.
We survived the nearly 8 hours in a confined space with movies, a small meal and a glass of sauv. blanc. Kudos to the airline for switching from plastic to cardboard containers and wooden silverware.
As we approached Amsterdam, I looked for and finally spotted the wind turbines in the North Sea. Harnessing the wind. Amsterdam Schiphol is huge and I timed the touchdown to our arrival at the gate. 20 minutes. Not bad.
What WAS bad (confusing) though, was trying to find our connecting gate to Prague. We figured it would be close to our arrival gate, yet how wrong we were. Nowhere did we find vital information informing us we had to proceed to passport control, “exit” the secured area of the airport, then re-enter again and go through security one more time. Only then were we able to make our way to the connecting gate. But a good Americano from Starbucks helped ease the pain.
The flight to Prague was plagued with an hour delay–a fuel issue. Initially the fix was to switch planes, but the good ol’ ground crew figured out the problem, so we simply had an hour wait. I didn’t mind—I relaxed and tried to sleep.
The hour flight to Prague brought us to a landscape similar to Minnesota’s. Leaves were in full color and the air held a crisp edge. Gorgeous.
The Prague Marriott did not disappoint. A lovely room where we can lay our weary heads tonight. Electronics are charging up, and we hope our bodies do the same.
Prague—Day 2
When we booked our trip a year ago, I worried the early November weather and temps might be unpleasant. Yet a restful night’s sleep and a gorgeous fall day here in Prague made our walking tour a joy. We began at 8:30 and trooped through Old Town, over the Charles Bridge and up to the Prague Castle. Love the architecture, the winding cobblestone streets–even the street lights, as well as the pronounced lack of tourists. Our guide commented that we’d hit the sweet spot and we had skirted a usually very crowded Prague. In two weeks the Christmas season will rev up.
Because Prague escaped bombing in WWII, buildings here span centuries. The art nouveau municipal house with its green roof blends with the new glass/metal building across the street. A large butterfly affixed to a structure down the street spreads its metal wings and the astronomical clock intrigues onlookers each hour.
The Vltava river runs through the town with old city towers/gates at each end of the Charles Bridge. The bridge, lined with statues, was commissioned in 1342 and separates Old Town from the Lesser Town district.
Several notables from Prague were new to me, though perhaps not to others. I hadn’t known anything about Jan Hus–the fact that he was a religious reformer a decade before Martin Luther. Born in 1349, Hus was a priest who challenged the church’s (and any secular ruler’s) control. He was eventually charged with heresy, excommunicated and burned at the stake (!) in 1415. As a reformer, he became a symbol of Czech nationalism.
The other person I wasn’t aware of was Alphonse Mucha–a wonderful painter, illustrator and graphic artist. I’d seen his work, mostly his posters, and really liked his style, but didn’t recognize his name. Sorry, Alphonse—from now on I’ll remember.
Excited that tomorrow we have a totally free day to wander and drink in what Prague has to offer. Then off to Nürnberg and the ship on Sunday.
Day 3—-Last day in Prague:
Just a note to say I’m having issues placing captions on the photos, so bear with me..
Finally figured out the Czech crown-dollar ratio easily– for instance, 100 crowns. In your head, eliminate the last zero (10 crowns) and divide by 2. You come up with 5. So…100 crowns equals $5. tada!
So enjoyed our free day in old town Prague. Nothing but time to wander and enjoy. Crisp morning air turned warm and our light down jackets were perfect, allowing us to walk, gawk, and be inspired.
What to see/visit here in the area? As we became more knowledgeable and comfortable here, we chose to see the Mucha Museum and simply stroll and enjoy the unique aspects of Prague life.
Hadn’t seen the Hus monument up close, so we first walked to the town square to see it as the sun warmed us. We enjoyed once again the astronomical clock that performed on the hour for us and hundreds of others. Near the town hall, the 21 inlaid crosses commemorate the beheading of 21 nobles, intellectuals and merchants in 1621. What history there is here…
Walking on cobblestones can be a challenge. The stories these streets and walkways could tell! The smaller sidewalk stones offer a more stable path, while the larger nearly 3-inch square stones require a bit of caution–over time the compound acting as a grout has disappeared, leaving the possibility of a trip or fall. Were we 7 instead of 70+, it wouldn’t have concerned us at all.
We came upon the Havelská Market showcasing lovely produce and Prague souvenirs. Toy stores featured their marionettes, which apparently this area is known for. And the butterfly plane honored the pilots as it flapped its wings. We topped the afternoon off at the hotel’s bar. The mixologist crafted a martini for Kirk featuring Czech vodka he instantly fell in love with. Actually, I’d recommend this hotel, even though it’s a western chain. The Marriott here was wonderful.
Day 4—Prague to Nürnberg
First rainy day–good for a 4-hour bus ride to our longship in Nürnberg. We had a nice breakfast in Prague–lingered over my favorite juice ever–freshly squeezed orange juice. Those juicing machine are the best.
With around three hours between needing to place our suitcases outside our room and a bus ride to the ship in Germany, I scouted an area I’d seen but hadn’t visited–a building whose marguee simpy stated “shopping.”
I entered a five-story shopping wonderland. Think the megamall shrunk to 1/10 the size. Five floors glittered with nearly every shop imaginable–and all on the cusp of holiday grandeur. I entered on the 0 floor, with two floors below me and two up–top floor being the food court of course. The -1 floor featured a supermarket among other specialy foodie shops and the retail rivaled anything I’d experienced before.
What I didn’t need was anything else to shove into my suitcase and after 45 minutes, shopping “sickness” set in and I escaped into the rain. I’ve decided I am not a shopper. I hate going into stores for the sake of going into them. Instead, if I need something, I grab it and am done. End of story.
Our bus ended up being delayed an hour and we didn’t reach Nûrnberg until 5:30 pm. Once we got our room assignment, the first people we encountered were the Veldmans, good friends who’d arrived a bit earlier from the US.
Meals onboard allow one to choose from the “featured” menu of the area we’re visiting or from the traditional fare. I opted for the Leberwurst soup as an appetizer. Hmm. No one else at the table wanted the liver dumpling in a wonderful beef broth, but I loved it. Then came the so so tender pork, followed by an apple strudel-type dessert. Oh, did I mention the wonderful dry Riesling? Outstanding.
So tomorrow we experience Nürnberg and then sail off to Bamberg and the Main River—then in Frankfurt onto the Rhein. Adventure awaits…
PART 2: RIVER CRUISE
Nürnberg—Nov. 10
Well, the onboard bed certainly isn’t the comfy one we had in Prague at the Marriott. This one was more crowded (a queen?) and lumpy (mattress pad that had lost its fluff?) BUT we’re trying to see if a “topper” helps a bit and eases Kirk’s sore shoulders in the morning. Good coffee helped our grumpiness
After breakfast we boarded a Viking bus for a brief tour of Nürnberg. It wasn’t until we were in the town square, currently being transformed into the Christmas market, that I realized I HAD toured the area before. Fellow traveler Jane and I had been here 10 years ago. After our walking tour we found the same coffee shop she and I had visited but this time needed to punch in and pay for our order electronically, then grab a vibrating disc (think Panera) and wait for our order. We enjoyed a coffee with a bit of Lebkuchen bought around the corner.
There are apparently four Lebkuchen companies that hold the corner on the gingerbread market. This time of year the production ramps up and collectable tins and decorated Lebkucken are favorites for shoppers.
Kirk was in heaven after finding a cigar salon that sold Cuban cigars. A fancy spot to enjoy a smoke and a cocktail, Kirk did purchase a few Cubans, but I was glad when we left the shop, given my allergy to smoke.
The 975-year-old city of Nürnberg was nearly totally destroyed in WWII. It took 6 years to remove the rubble and 20 years to rebuild. Though heavily bombed, relatively few people here died…all because of the underground caverns built for the beer industry. The sandstone tunnels acted as shelters, so the Nürnbergers like to say beer saved them during the war.
Albrecht Dürer is one of my favorite artists and we found two monuments commemorating him–one of himself and one representing his identifiable rabbit. He was the first artist known to have signed a painting with his initials and also one who first veered away from painting religious scenes.
Adorning a house’s corner we found a “saint” (in this case St. John, the dragon slayer). This saint acted as a sort of status symbol and indicated to all that a sword or weapon smith lived in the house.
The clouds cleared leaving a lovely fall scene. Now off to happy hour and dinner and a bit of jazz. Just have to share a sticker I saw in town…haha! Says…”don’t be an a…hole!” Had to look up the sponsor and it’s a group against right-wing extremism.
Bamberg—Nov. 11
Some days just make you smile. Visiting Bamberg today (where our man-made canal met the Main River) was a delight. We got on the bus to go into town only to realize both KIrk and I had forgotten our audio devices in our room as well as a map of the town. Well, one just accommodates the mayhem. I took a photo of someone’s map, borrowed an audio receiver from our guide, and Kirk and I followed him quite closely so Kirk could hear everything he said.
Bamberg was also not bombed by planes in WWII so the skyline of the buildings we saw was nearly identical to that of the Middle Ages. No highrises here. Founded in 902, Bamberg is known for its Rauchbier (smoky beer–many think it has a hint of bacon flavor to it). We figured a morning tour of the city didn’t really lend itself to beer, so we didn’t try it.
But we enjoyed the 11th century cathedral and the old city hall. The state library (think Library of Congress) intrigued us. It’s housed in the Neue Residenz, which, when built, was short on money to finish it, so many of the reliefs in the outer wall were painted on. From afar, the relief looks very real, yet up close, it’s an apparent paint job.
When the official walking tour ended, we stopped in for a coffee and then wandered a bit. Love the flowers–especially those readying us for the holiday season.
Returning to the ship just before lunch, I relaxed and was profoundly fortunate to think, “ahh…this is just what I was hoping for.” Sitting in the front of the longship with a glass of wine and a good book, I took in the fall scene before me as the boat slid through the calm water and navigated some of the many locks we’ll encounter. High tea at 3:30 rounded off the afternoon and I’ve rarely experienced such a degree of relaxation. Pure joy.
Würzburg. Nov. 12
A damp foggy day evolved into a gorgeous sunny one as we strolled across the old bridge and into the town of Würzburg, a town heavily damaged by WWII bombs.
The main focus of this city is its UNESCO site, the former residence of the prince-bishop Johann Philipp Franz von Schönborn. This baroque palace was designed by Balthasar Neumann and took 60 years to complete (1720-1780).
The frescos, stucco-work, chandeliers and tapestries adorn the place. Above a grand staircase, a ceiling fresco measuring 18x30 metres represents the four continents and glorifies the prince-bishop. Such vanity!
Rooms are so heavily decorated the gold nearly blinds one. Heavy tapestries and ornate chandeliers (formerly lit by candles), as well as elaborately designed stucco dazzle one. I said to Kirk, “Goodness, who would ever use this style of gold and ostentatious decorating?” He reminded me of a ballroom being built in Washington DC…
Despite the bombs’ destruction of much of the palace and a 1945 fire, the palace has been restored to its former glory, thanks in part to John Skilton, a second lieutenant and art historian stationed in Würzburg in 1945. He organized the initial rescue and restructuring of the residence by finding lumber, tar paper, and cement to build makeshift roofs over vital areas, thus saving frescos and tapestries.
Following the glitz of the palace, Kirk and I wandered the streets, noting remnants of old buildings blending with the new structures. We decided to eat traditional franconian fare for lunch. Kirk’s pork shoulder with potato knödeln and my Wiener Schnitzel with lingonberries and salad were luscious. Adding to the meal was a glass of the area’s noted white Silvaner wine. It’s light and delicious.
We smiled as we discovered automats where one can purchase a bottle of beer or a bottle of wine. Drinking in public is allowed here for anyone over 16.
We continue on the Main River to Marktheidenfeld and Lohr am Main tomorrow. Eating and drinking our way through Germany.
Thurs., Nov. 13 Marktsheidenfeld and Lohr
Ahhh…great night’s sleep, due in part I’m sure to the fact we requested and received two twin comforters and not just one rather skimpy “large” one. No more stealing the covers, and we both slept great.
Well, pictures are not behaving and I can’t move them into my text. Will keep trying, but the one above is of Lohr, and those below…well…you’ll figure it out.
We bussed 20+ minutes to Lohr–known to be on the original Fairy Tale road—an area where the Brothers Grimm collected oral stories and recorded them in writing.
Supposedly Lohr itself was the home of Snow White. Historians believe Maria Sophia Margarethe Catharina, Baroness von Erthal, was the actual person who inspired the Grimms Brothers story. She had a kind soul, but also a cantankerous step-mother who had seven children from a previous marriage. Somehow tossed into the mix was Countess Margaretha von Waldeck. Her father owned copper mines in the area and employed children to work in dangerous conditions–referring to these kiddos as “poor dwarfs.” Given the aunties and grannies of the area, it’s not hard to imagine how the story of Snow White evolved.
Lohr is known for its well-preserved Old Town. Half-timbered houses and tiny walkways snake through that part of town. Nearly every house has an outside cellars here that store beer and wine. Many doorways bore the date 2025 divided by the letters C+M+B. The meaning is that the three kings, Caspar, Melchior, and Balthazar, visited this house on Three Kings Day, Jan. 6, 2025. Next January the % will be erased and replaced by a 6 (2026).
I’ve been impressed with the way merchants display their merchandise, although the photo here doesn’t really illustrate the technique. Care is taken to explain the cost of items. Then accessories are added, draped. The effect is very enticing.
Very cloudy, cool, damp. This weather, as yesterday’s, burned off and the sun shone on us as we ate on the main deck after our trek into Lohr am Main.
A leisure afternoon glide along the Main to the Rhine and Frankfurt culminated with a meal of traditional German fare. Birnen Schnapps began it all, ending with great desserts. The würstchen and käse, along with the sauerkraut and fixings made for a memorable meal. We’re both bursting!
Fri., Nov. 14 Frankfurt
A lovely November morning as we walked through Frankfurt's old town. Hard to believe it’s mid-November and so mild. Rumor has it rain is coming for the next few days, so we’re enjoying being out and about while we can.
Our first stop was an original building of a fachwerk, or timbered house. Love that each story bumps out a bit more. Fachwerk houses, a traditional timber-framing technique, use local materials like oak, clay and stone. Timber beams intersect with whitewashed plaster or brick, thus creating geometric patterns which are clearly identifiable.
We were delighted that a Christmas tree was being set up and decorated near city hall. In addition, we noticed the celebration of a wedding just outside. In fact, over the next few hours as we walked the old town, we saw 2-3 more bride-groom duos walking. Clearly city hall was a popular wedding venue.
Frankfurt’s city hall, or the Römer, was the former site of the Holy Roman emperor’s coronation ceremony. After the war, a modern office building was built behind the original façade.
In front of city hall a plaque rests in the cobblestone that commemorates the book burning that took place at this spot on May 10, 1933. Heine’s words still echo…”Wherever books are burned, men also, in the end will burn.”
St. Bartholomew’s Church is an iconic structure in Old Town. Heavily damaged in the war, it’s been restored and now carries a blend of gothic, renaissance, and baroque styles.
Finding a WC is always a priority when traveling and the one we found was in the basement of a food hall. What a gastronomical spectacle. Fun to see.
JFK spoke in Paul’s Church in the Old Town, in June 1963, about six months before his assassination. He stated in the pulpit there, “Let it not be said of this Atlantic generation that we left ideals and visions to the past, nor purpose and determination to our adversaries.”
I was surprised to see a tribute to George Floyd on a building as we left Frankfurt.
We lunched on the foredeck and later relaxed while the Main flowed into the Main and we turned south toward Basel.
Saturday, Nov. 15 Karlsruhe
Docked in Karlsruhe around 8 this morning–a brief stop to unload passengers for a city tour. Then the bus went on to Plittersdorf and we met the boat there around noon.
Our tour today included a local micro-brewery. One of the 5000 breweries in Germany, this one has opted to market its beer locally–so nothing is shipped out. The brewery is housed in a complex that also includes a hotel and a restaurant. I enjoyed the bock beer, though a wheat and an IPA were also available for us to sample. To enter the brewing area, some of us elected to slide into the area—yes, a real slide which I’ve pictured below.
I’d always heard about Karlsruhe, but had never visited here. A planned city, its palace mimics Versailles, and although the façade of the palace was refurbished after the war, the interior was not. Botanical gardens became all the rage in the 1800s with palaces vying to outdo one another. The gardens here feature trees from all over the world and I particularly enjoyed the gold of the ginko trees, just now shedding their leaves. And we laughed at the rather large bird on top of the tree next to it.
Again today we saw brides and grooms, many posing for photographs in front of the palace. . Here most couples visit city hall while a small number of friends and family wait outside and celebrate with them as they emerge. I’m sure there are larger church weddings, but it is fun to see the intimate gatherings. And I couldn’t help but photograph a mailman. As with other cities, Karlsruhe was readying its town square for its Christmas festival.
Sunday, Nov. 16 Strasbourg
What better way to start the day than being greeted by a bevy of swans floating outside your veranda. Curious (and hungry) little buggers.
But these aren’t the only fowl in the city, Storks have built their nests on top of trees leading into the city center, though this time of year they’ve flown to North Africa. They’ll return in the spring with the males arriving first to get nests ready for their females.
Strasbourg on a Sunday is a bit sleepy. But people were still revving up for the Christmas season. We so enjoy the decorations–and yet a full 10 days until the Christmas markets, so one can see how seriously they take decorating the city.
A town of 300,000, Strasbourg is one of the de facto capitals of the EU. It also has the European Council of Human Rights. Though it’s toggled back and forth 5 times between being German or French, it now lies in French territory, though it’s been said most here prefer to be called Alsacians rather than French.
The Old Town is surrounded by the Ill River and we cruised around this, noting various half-timbered houses and lovely canals.
Ran into a group of Albanians whom we originally thought were a soccer team, but turns out they’re a part of the protesters who oppose the imprisonment of Albanian politicians in the Hague for war crimes. These passionate men feel it is the Serbian leaders who committed the war crimes. Nice guys, very dedicated to their cause and eager to share.
Just hours left in this adventure, it seems. But our arrival in Basal on Tues is not the end for us—a return trip to Freiburg (a mere 45 minutes from Basel) awaits us.
Monday, Nov. 17 Breisach
Awoke to rain and chill. But since our first outing of the day was a bus ride through the wine region of the area, all was well. We drove through the Kaiserstuhl—part of a volcano that erupted 19-16 million years ago. Interesting to see the crater, now filled with millions of vines.
This area is known as having the warmest, sunniest weather in Germany.The winds from the Mediterranean that blow north into the area between the Black Forest and the Vosges Mountains of France provide a perfect climate for the popular Pinto Noir and Pinto Gris grapes here.
A brisk but now sunny stroll through Breisach brought us up a cobblestoned road to the St. Stephens church. I found its altar magnificent (sculpted by local artist Helmut Lutz around 1525). The combination of modern stained glass windows and the old altar spoke of the timelessness of the church and religion.
We’ve walked through many cobblestoned streets, but for some reason, Breisach seemed to have nothing but cobblestones. They were everywhere so must be nearly indestructible.
A relaxing day, revving up for tomorrow’s arrival (and cruise’s final destination) in Basel.
Nov. 18 Basel
We’d seen the forecast for chill, and chilly it was as our walking tour of Basel began. Though I’d been here 50+ years ago, my orientation of the town had been from the Badischer Bahnhof, the German train station.
When I was a student at the University of Freiburg (1973-74), Basel was the Swiss city 45 min. away by train that offered my favorite cigarettes of the time (Dunhill with the fabulous gold wrappers) and even more culture. I was particularly in love with the Rodin sculptures in the Basel Art Museum.
Basel lies at the meeting point of France, Germany, and Switzerland. Though German is spoken here, it’s Swiss German, which is so unique that German speakers cannot understand much of it. Other official languages are Italian, French and Romanish
Today our walking tour focused on the famous tiled-roof Münster and other sights, like the Jean Tinguely water fountain, the Fastnacht Fountain. Tinguely’s famous for his statement that the “only stable thing is movement.” Don’t I know that from the ADD kids I’ve had in my classroom.
The cathedral (Münster), built between 1019 and 1500 has elements of Romanesque and Gothic styles. An earthquake in 1356 destroyed some of the church and when it was rebuilt, the style of the church changed. The patterned roof is unique.
In the cloisters of the church, one finds interesting sculptures commemorating the catastrophe of 1986 when the Sandoz chemical spill occurred. A fire at the plant’s agrochemical storehouse released toxic chemicals into the air and Rhine River turning it red. Wildlife downstream for hundreds of miles were killed and residents were warned to stay far away from the river itself. The bronze sculptures depict the “blackened” or poisoned market vegetables of the time.
Basel’s city hall mesmerized us. The red façade combined with other bright colors reigned over the market square.
Finding great coffee and tea nearby, we warmed up before again being bussed back to the ship. Had to stop and admire the Rodin sculpture in the museum’s atrium.
Back to the ship and packing for our third adventure of the trip—going back to Freiburg. Stay tuned!
PART 3: Nov. 19—off to Freiburg.
We extended our cruise with a private adventure. The anticipation of leaving the ship and meeting Rémy Knopp kept me from sleeping well. Remy is the son of Arthur and Jeanette Knopp with whom I lived when I was a college junior and chose to participate in the Junior Year in Freiburg (Germany) program.
The Knopp family welcomed me with open arms and during that school year ‘73-’74, I felt like a daughter more than a tenant. Rémy and I shared the upper floor of the house–we each had a bedroom and shared a bath. It wasn’t uncommon for me to be invited to share a meal with them–even outings to St. Paul, their cottage on the south shore of Lake Geneva.
Though Rémy’s parents have passed away, he and I have kept in touch. Rémy currently lives in Basel, yet he and his family still own the home in Freiburg where I stayed in college. What a delight to be offered the opportunity to again stay in that third floor area—now a small delightful apartment outfitted with a kitchen, living area and bedroom. My old room is now a cute kitchen. Without anything but a hot plate then, I hung milk cartons, butter, etc. out the window to keep them cool.
Though there are many new-builds here (most are larger houses with apartments) this area of Freiburg called “Herdern” still carries the charm I remember from my student days. Kirk, Rémy and I walked the neighborhood and then ducked into my former favorite neighborhood restaurant (Zum Weinstube) for lunch. Delicious pork schnitzel with a tasty garden salad and fries.
Kirk and I will explore Freiburg and the Black Forest trails, some which lie a mere 10-minute walk from this house on Jägerhäusleweg. Friday Rémy will again fetch us and we’ll enjoy staying with him and his wife Claudia before flying back to MN on Sunday.
Thurs., Nov. 20 Freiburg
Walking into Freiburg Altstadt took about 30 minutes as we wandered slowly, retracing the route I’d taken to the university here over 50 years ago. The fresh 40 degree temp invigorated us.
This area (Herdern) has changed a lot–noting the old structures on one side of the road, and the new-builds on the other. Another startling change for me as a pedestrian was the number of bicycles, especially the motorized ones. Bikes zoom by faster than cars and those using the walkways pose an issue for walkers.
On the trek to town, I wanted to walk through the Alte Friedhof (old cemetery) I’d enjoyed so much before. It’s an area to meditate, the quiet is so peaceful. My favorite gravestone still attracts flowers, just as it did years ago. Not sure of the girl’s story, but this gravesite is definitely beloved.
The downtown was bustling with the Christmas market just setting up. We walked past some former university buildings and ducked into the famed Münster. I’d taken solace there many times during my university year. It’s a majestic cathedral whose sandstone is forever being repaired.
Walking back to the apartment, we decided to sample the traditional Freiburg sausage in a great bun. I’d eaten and loved these so much. Mine requires cooked onion and mustard and was delicious.
We continued walking back through the Stadtpark–so lovely–the fall leaves just hanging on and the green grass loving the cool temps.
Just three hours and over 12,000 steps. The hips are getting used to the cobblestones, yet a Tylenol or two helps as well.
Being back is familiar, yet so much new to discover.
Nov. 21—Freiburg-Basel
Our last morning in Freiburg, and I didn’t want to miss a good walk in the forest. The city nestles into the side of the Black Forest, and the nearby trails run from those wide enough for a vehicle, to those that Kirk calls “goat paths.”
After a perfectly prepared egg-cup breakfast, we packed up awaiting a 2 pm pick up from Rémy and Claudia. Then off into the forest.
Though it had snowed lightly overnight and and temp was around freezing, the forest sights and sounds mezmerized us. We’d overdressed a bit and were able to take off gloves and unzip our jackets as we wandered.
And wander we did. Without a good map–with just a sense of “it’s over there,” we wound our way through the forest to the Dattler Restaurant that reigns supreme over the Stadtpark. On the 70 minute walk we encountered joggers, teens with backpacks, other wanderers like ourselves who often had their dogs in tow. Our favorite sight was several moms or families with young kids whose snow suits were covered from head to toe with mud. They must’ve found an area to slide down or roll in. Such joy on their faces.
The magic of that walk will stay with me. From trying to decide which way to go at a crossroads to dodging the heavy drops of melting snow that fell on us, we somehow made it to the restaurant for lunch.
The Dattler is quite well known in Freiburg. From the city park, one can buy a ticket to use the electric car that will deliver you to the top of the hill. We’d chosen to walk there through the forest’s winding paths and somehow we arrived.
Overlooking the city, we ate a lovely meal and enjoyed a beer (Kirk) and glass of wine (me). Then because we were to meet the Knopps for a drive back to Basel at 2 pm, we set off for the apartment via the town, not back through the forest.
Overlooking the city, we ate a lovely meal and enjoyed a beer (Kirk) and glass of wine (me). Then because we were to meet the Knopps for a drive back to Basel at 2 pm, we set off for the apartment via the town, not back through the forest.
Well sometimes it’s best not to follow my directions. I’d looked up the best way back, only to realize as we walked that the 7 minutes back was for driving, not for walking. Had we followed Kirk’s advice, all would’ve been well, but while pig-headed Jane’s advice got us back to the apartment, it took us up and around, down and through. We beat the Knopps to the apartment by a mere 10 minutes and had logged 15,000 steps.
Claudia and Rémy are delightful. Claudia still works for a bank M-Th. But Fridays she’s free, so was able to come along to fetch us. Knopps live in a suburb of Basel called Riehen. They built a gorgeous home about 10 years ago and we instantly fell in love with it.
Because Knopps felt we should enjoy a typical “must have” Swiss meal, they prepared a lovely cheese fondue for us. The cheese was a combination of gruyere and Vacherin Fribourgeois. Their daughter Eva and son Yannick join us. Eva is studying medicine in Basel and Yannick drove up from Zurich where he’s employed by Edelweiss Airlines–a division of Lufthansa.
Nov. 22-23 Basel, Basel to MN
We awoke Saturday to a grey morning and leisurely ate breakfast, packed a bit and enjoyed a delicious barley soup Claudia had made. It’s a special Swiss soup from the St. Moritz region.
The sun broke through and the four of us, along with Eva, trekked off into the countryside in brisk, though snow-free, temps. From a viewpoint 15 minutes from Knopp’s house in Switzerland, one sees France, Germany—”Drei-eck Land!” a 3-country corner.
The jaunt brought us to Villa Wenkenhof, a villa gifted to the city of Riehen. It’s a large park-like area with lovely buildings and a former indoor riding arena. The building housing the arena is now a bistro where Eva works occasionally. We enjoyed yummy treats and drinks there.
The main Wenkenhof house that day was the venue for a wedding reception and a gleaming Ferrari 488 was decorated outside awaiting the newlyweds. So fun to see the traditions of other countries.
Dinner back at Knopps brought us another wonderful meal of pork tenderloin filled with feta and wrapped in bacon. Dessert was another slice of Freiburg’s famous Stefan’s cheesecake.
Then off to pack and prepare for our 3:30 am wakeup and 6 am departure from Basel to Amsterdam.
And all went well UNTIL Kirk and I, bleary-eyed, entered the Basel airport Sunday at 4:30 am, only to discover our 6 pm flight to Amsterdam had been cancelled. Cancelled! I shouldn’t have been surprised, given the craziness of such things earlier in the US, but still…. So again, one modifies.
We searched the Basel airport for a Delta agent who suggested a British Airways flight to London and then a Delta flight London-MSP. We were relieved to realize we’d get into MSP only 2 hrs. later than our original flight from Amsterdam.
We’d paid for Delta Comfort seats on the Amsterdam-MSP portion of the trip, and on our app could find no Comfort seats available on the London-MSP trip. So as to not be too uncomfortable on an 8-hr flight, I selected two seats left in Premium Select, the next higher option from Comfort. Cost a ton, but we’ll contact Delta and see what we can do about not having to pay twice–once for Comfort, then again for “Premium Select.”
Once in London, it was time for a morning bloody mary. Relief to know our way home was just one more plane ride away. Have to say the flight to MSP from London was very comfortable and the time went fast. Noise-cancelling headphones work great during such trips and though we were tired when we landed about 2 pm in Minneapolis, we weren’t dead tired….yet.
Our wonderful Uber (the Roots) snatched us from the airport and we arrived back in AL where the Nov. 23rd weather seemed more like September than late November. Happy pets, happy travelers. After a few days our sleep/wake schedules should even out.
Now our Thanksgiving cactus is blooming, its own way of welcoming us home. I always like to sit back and reflect after trips like this one. Prague-river cruise-Frieburg-Basel and friends. How rich is this life. How fortunate we are in the midst of the political storm in the US and the world, to surround ourselves with the beauty of history, of friendship, of genuine compassion. May the adventures never cease, may the goodwill prevail.
