Day 12. Zaros and surrounds
I’m sure the proprietor will shake his/her head when they see Jane’s and my room here at the guest house. We’ve moved lamps, re-purposed furniture, and when the light bulbs were quite dim or missing, I took the bulbs from another room and supplied ours. Oh well!
Staying in little villages and traveling with Anna in a small group brings one to “off road” places. We’ve met and seen interesting people and terrain. And the regional food? So unique and (mostly) tasty. The water here is pure, often running from fountains in the city. This water is bottled (called Zaro’s) and is widely distributed.
Breakfast consisted of tea first, then coffee, and fruit. Then...the parade began. Everything from a porridge-type of cereal to jellied musk from the grapes, to all sorts of ingredients en croute--like mushrooms, red peppers, apples, chocolate, cheese, etc. Food kept arriving at the table, all traditional and so well prepared. Anna says the farmers would eat the porridge, bread or cheese, and have a glass of red wine before taking off to the fields.
Our focus for the day was a “green” self-sustaining farm. They grow olives, herbs, carob beans, veggies, and have goats, sheep (now grazing in the mountains), chickens, and pigs. We tossed ourselves into the back of a pickup and took a 10 minute ride to a valley not far from Zaros. Along the roadside we had a lesson on the olive trees they grow (three varieties including “wild” olives), and herbs. Then we were introduced to a farm carved into the hillside, which I can call nothing but “charming.” It’s taken the owners years, but the gardens, pens, orchards, and residence have all been crafted with a visible love of the land and a determination to sustain all the gifts the land holds.
After touring the yard and pens (and milking a goat), we sat down to a delicious lunch of tomatoes, cucumbers, tatziki, bread, beets, deep fried zucchini, tender potatoes, carob honey, and fruit.
Me milking a goat
One big pig!
We made cheese from the goat milk and tasted the curds and whey--actually very good! Then we made phyllo dough and after the cheese had drained, rolled out the phyllo, cut it, added a dab of cheese. Then we fried it in oil in the outside kitchen, topped it with honey and cinnamon and...wow! Naturally all this was accompanied by wine and Raki, the regional firewater.
A lovely breeze bathed us in coolness, and we so appreciated the temperature change in the hills. This farm is a testament to living off the land and being passionate about all things “natural.” For instance, the goats are sent out into the olive orchards after the olives are picked. They eat and naturally fertilize the land. They’ve found a distributor for non-GMO seeds, etc. and strive in every way to live in harmony with the land. If you ever get to Crete, don’t miss this experience. Greenpeace has contacted them about making a documentary about their mission.
